post-16-1163423072.gif

Last November the New York Times featured an article in its Travel section on the changing face of Imbisse in Berlin (“Street Food With Ambition“). The article explains that fast food here isn’t just about currywurst and döner anymore – chefs at these small restaurants are turning out flavorful dishes at reasonable prices. W-Imbiss is a NYTimes favorite and it has received attention from other outlets as well.

The Gordon W. Imbiss, located in Mitte near the border with Prenzlauer Berg, is right in the heart of a trendy shopping district. It’s owned by the Agentur 103 group, which also runs a bar and a club in the area. W has about four tables inside and a counter that runs along the wall. The rest of the space is occupied by tiki-style decorations, the small open kitchen, and Gordon W. himself; his already robust personality seems to have expanded since the NYTimes feature.

The menu consists primarily of naan pizzas, wraps, and rice bowls. Most of the dishes have common ingredients such as artichokes, olives, avocados, and the option of tandoori salmon. Prices range from 1,50€ for a basic naan to 6,50€ for a rice bowl with salmon.

I ate at W three times over the course of three months with differing results. The first time I had a naan pizza topped with guacamole, chipolte sauce, rucola, and sun-dried tomatoes. The naan was so burnt and the guacamole and chipolte sauce so scarce that my mouth was parched from ash. Fortunately, my friend’s goat cheese and spinach naan special was better, so I stole a bite of that and settled into a few beers.

The tandoori salmon rice bowl is the best dish on the menu. Each rice dish comes with sautéed vegetables and salad, with the choice of chipolte chili (we’ll get to this later), wild ginger, or suno mono dressing. In terms of flavor the salmon’s spicy and tangy marinade is a winner. Unfortunately, an extended stay in the tandoor left it a bit stiff and chewy. The vegetables were sound, if a bit mushy, and both the wild ginger and suno mono dressings are a pleasure. I strongly advise that you avoid the chipolte chili dressing like you would a 1€ döner; its abrasive spiciness is remarkably ill-suited for a salad. This concoction will spoil your chances of tasting anything further and leave you in an unpleasant mood.

Great place for lunch or an interesting after-work or -shopping meal, W. Imbiss definitely signals a change in Berlin dining, but its inconsistency shows that the city is still in transition.

Kastanienallee 49 / 10119 Berlin
030 48 49 26 57
Open daily from 12:30
Menu

Poaching,
Jeremy